Getting out of Ukraine is about as easy as getting in and my van was turned inside out with a thorough search (sorry Mal, but it meant I couldn't bring you back a Ukrainian wife as requested). Thankfully a helpful Russian guy called Camille was able to aid me in collecting the endless number of stamps and signatures of approval needed to get past the large guarded barrier standing in my way. It only took a paltry 3 hours and it is indicative of the Ukraine that I found that quicker than expected.
Once "out" of the Ukraine, I still had to get "in" to Moldova - a much easier process it turns out. After being abbruptly halted by a uniformed guard I feared the worst as his squinty eyed collegues gathered around the back of the van exchanging glances like a stand-off in a western film before insisting "you make open the doors". They immediately spotted the guitar strapped to the back door, smiled, and requested I played a song for them. An out of tune sing-a-long later (and a couple of quick stamps in my passport) and I was, quite literally, waved off into Moldova. I am not sure there is such a thing as a lovable border guard but if there is, Moldova seems to have a monopoly on them.
My first taste of Moldova was a few country roads with the sun setting and children herding cows with bells on down the side of the roads with big sticks. The hills are rolling with green and yellow fields and lush blue lakes in the valleys. Through the little villages, the old generations gathered on the roadside to chat before staring open-mouthed as they checked out my numberplate on the way past - obviously not a country which gets a lot of Brits driving through. The evening drew dark quickly and I had to negotiate several hours of motorways (although "road-with-at-least-some-tarmac-on" might be more appropriate). Still, I was glad to be back with a normal alphabet on the roadsigns.
Moldova countryside summed up in a picture.
Moldovans seem to have no concept of driving with lights though and are split between those who drive a horse and cart without so much as a reflector on, and those who speed past with dazzling full-beams on constantly. Both are a nuisance but I eventually arrived in Chisinau (even giving a friendly hitch-hiker a lift along the way) about 2am and slept in the back of the van on the roadside.
In the morning, I booked into a hotel for the first time - Hotel Turist. It is a bit shabby and kooky with stay dogs wandering around the carpark but it is cheap, clean and very friendly. In fact, the place basically sums up Moldova in a nutshell! There is even a big soviet statue outside the main entrance. When I arrived, I got my key but no guide or list of rules, just a sheet of paper with what to do should we be hit by an earthquake. The room is old and simple but it's comfy enough and I even get dolphins on the toilet seat.
My first day in the city was the country's 20th Independance Day celebrations (why does that sound familiar?) so I took a stroll into the centre to check it out. The event was much smaller than the one in Kiev but without such a big police presence. It felt much more like a fun-loving community party than a government organised performance.
There were local food stalls and a single stage in the middle of the main street which during the day played host to a variety of acts - street dancers, a group of violinists, folk dancers, brass bands, ballet, kids theatre, an orchestra, and a single random yodelling woman. There was even one guy playing the most amazing pan-pipes solo!
Amazing pan-pipes solo
At 10pm there was a huge firework display to rival Kiev's, all set to dramatic music, and the launching of a big hot air balloon. After this, all of the singing acts gathered on stage to lead the national anthem with karaoke words up on the big screen. That was by no means the end of the party though as Moldovan superstars "Zdob Si Zdub" played a long set to finish up. Their sound is a mix of local folk music and bluesy-rock which sounds fantastic and there was loads of dancing and singing along (and even a good old fashioned punch-up) in the crowd. It was a great way to crown a superb night.
The other is centred around a big water fountain and is full of park benches with electrical outlets at the back where you can plug in a laptop and access the free Wi-Fi. It's not a country completely in the past you know. At the park entrance is a big statue of beloved Moldovan prince Stefan Cel Mare. In the evening I took a stroll to the Beer House which has a selection of it's own house brews (the dark beer being especially good) but Moldova is more famous for it's wine...
Near Chisinau are two huge wineries, Cricova and Milestii Mici, and both have outlets in the city - the perfect places to stock up on a few bottles (from a quite resonable 75p/litre upwards) as well as their champaigne, whiskey and liquers. Chisinau also has it's own beer which is nice too.
The next day I took a trip out of the city to see one of Moldova's best known attractions, the 13th century Orhiul Vechi Monastry, now back in use once again. Sat on top of a picturesque hill with the river winding down in the valley below is a church and a tunnel entrance to the monastry itself.
In the carpark I got chatting to a local couple, Sergiu and Ana, and we ended up visiting the monastry together. As you go down the steps into the cliff you come to the chapel area and a little plateau balcony with a great view. Further inside the cave, if you duck your head, is the sleeping quarters which is divided up into rather claustraphobic little areas for each monk.
Sergiu and Ana
After the monastry, Sergiu insisted we go somewhere to eat so I followed them back to town where I was introduced to the national dish, "mamaliga", a sort of corn porridge pancake with milk and goats cheese, and the popular "polenta", a delicious crepe-type thing stuffed with cheese or potato. Sergiu very kindly insisted the meal was on him and there were even leftovers to take with me for breakfast the next day.
After this, Sergiu and Anna decided to come with me to visit the previously mentioned Milestii Mici winery just south of Chisinau but on arrival we were only greeted by an empty carpark and three security guards. The place was shut for the day but I was kindly allowed to sleep in the van and do my visit in the morning so I said my goodbyes to Sergiu and Ana and begain sorting the van out for the night.
Soon there was a knock on the door and one of the security guards was trying to explain something to me, did he want me to move on? Or did he want money? No, it turns out he was was asking if I was hungry and offered me an apple and drink so the four of us sat in the security office and cracked some of the cellar's wine open. There was a lot of talking but very little understanding between us.
The guard, Victor, then disappeared down the road on his bike before returning laden with carrier bags and we all sat in the evening light for a feast and to eat and drink the night away - that's two free meals in one day! There was meat, bread, fish, fruit, vegetables and we also ploughed through 2 litres of red wine, 2 litres of white wine, a litre of vodka and 4 litres of beer. The last thing I wanted in the morning was a wine tour!
The guards of Milestii Mici (Victor, right)
I was woken early in the morning (about 6.30) by Victor asking to use my bicycle pump before he meandered back home on his bike - yet another wonderfully helpful and generous person, even if I could have used the extra sleep.
The winery (the largest in Europe) opened a couple of hours later and I booked a tour that morning with a cracking lass called Olga. The tour, done personally by car or in this case campervan, covers the main areas of the 200km of tunnels underground where 55km are lined with over 2million bottles! The place is enormous and huge barrels line many of the other underground "roads". There is also a fountain, a secret room of hidden expensive bottles, and private collections of rich individuals. Definitely worth the visit.
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