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30 May 2010

Week 22 - Steelwork


The company I work for also comprises a steel lasercutting company based in the same building. The benefit of this was that I was able to draw up some steel parts for the van and get them cut and welded at work.
After lots of research into gas lockers, I decided that the commercially made ones were unsuited to my needs and also expensive at £100-£300 each. I also struggled to find one which would fit two Camping Gaz 907 cylinders.
Camping Gaz is a butane/propane mixed gas which is the only bottled gas readily available throughout Europe (it is more expensive than other brands such as Calor though). I will house two bottles inside the van under the hobs. 

After drawing my own box up in Solidworks (a 3D CAD system), I was able to get it precisely cut, etched, folded and welded up in a couple of days.

Note that I followed these points to ensure my gas bottles were stored safely inside the van:
  • The gas bottle must be sealed in a separate area from the living area of the van (i.e. a gas locker or under the van chassis). I fitted a tight seal to the lid of my gas locker to ensure gas will not escape.
  • The bottle should be fitted upright with the correct regulator to measure the amount of gas being released from the cylinder and to isolate the gas when not in use. I also fitted a valve outside the locker as a double safety check.
  • There should be a drop out position for any potentially leaking gas at the lowest point (at least 1000mm2 in area) which goes outside the van. Remember the gas is heavier than air so will generally sink.
  • There should be a drop out for gas which may possibly leak after leaving the gas locker (to the cooker heater etc). Mine is 750mm2.
  • The locker should be made from a strong, inflammable material (obviously) and secured as firmly as possible. Mine is 2mm Mild Steel. 


As well as the gas locker box, I also got the locker lid, a small plate, and a stainless kitchen splash-back (all etched with Vanny’s adopted logo). The kitchen splash-back is sized to fit exactly to the kitchen units and also has two folded shelves incorporated in. This will protect the carpeted walls when cooking and washing up.

Together, these parts would normally cost in the region of £100 but I was lucky enough to get them made for free and I am very pleased with how they turned out.


23 May 2010

Week 21 - Map 1


I guess the advantage of a self-built campervan over a factory made one is that you can make it personal to your needs instead of having a generic box on wheels. With this in mind, I decided to fit a map of Europe to the inside of the sliding side door (my plan for the van is to travel extensively in Europe for 6-12 months). The idea is that it becomes a discussion of travel plans as it faces opposite to the seating area and table.

After measuring the space, I eventually found the perfect map to replace the plain grey panel that is fitted at the moment. I also ordered a sheet of 2mm perspex from a company just down the road which will cover and protect the map.
I first cut a piece of 4mm plywood to size and shaped it to fit around the door handle and lock. I then did the same with the perspex. After that, I glued the map flat to the plywood.
Later, this will be riveted to the door, framed, and sealed.

15 May 2010

Week 20 - Storage Bench 3


This week work continued on the storage units. A beam was screwed to the wall where the storage bench is situated and the hinged lids could then be fitted in place. The seat was glued at the front and back to secure it in position.

Next, a 12v socket was fitted at the back of the van just inside the bench as a power outlet (phone or laptop charger etc).

This layout would later change quite considerably with the addition of another socket and a fuse box positioned in this space.

8 May 2010

Week 19 - Seat Upholstery 2


The seats are now finished and look great – especially when compared to the grubby old minibus seats that they started out as!

I don’t know the details but the seats were covered with a horizontal striped material on the fronts and a plain material on the back. They are a very awkward shape to cover though apparently.

There are small holes in the sides of the covers which allow the seatbelt buckles to bolt into their thread.