Week 52 - Electrics 1

It is now a whole year since I started work on the van and I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel. I have finished my electrical scematic (see below) and I was confident enough to make a start on tackling the bulk of the electrics this week. The diagram shows how the system will work: The batteries are charged from a battery charger when main electricity is available, and by the engine when it is running. The 12v equipment is run straight from the batteries through a fusebox and the 230v stuff can be switched between a consumer unit or an inverter depending on whether mains electricity is available. Simple, right?

I had a couple of days free from my day job so I managed to progress quite far with fitting all the electric gear. It looks a bit messy in such a confined space but I think everything so far is set up well and pretty secure.

The cable from the leisure batteries has been connected to a 100A relay which will supply power from the alternator. This is then attached to the batteries via another 80A midi fuse. The relay is triggered by a 30A smartcom unit which detects the current from the vehicle battery and only allows the relay to charge the leisure batteries when the vehicle battery is fully topped up.

The power coming from the leisure batteries goes to an isolator switch which will then go to the fuse box. This allows me to turn all the power on and off in one go. Another isolator switch is fitted to the 400W inverter unit. The inverter produces a mains voltage from the 12v it receives from the leisure batteries. As a result though, it is very inefficient and will drain the batteries quickly (it produces 400w no matter what, if anything, is plugged in). This switch allows me to turn the inverter on and off as required.

As well as the isolator switches, I wanted to be able to check the condition of the leisure batteries without lifting the front passenger seats. I therefore cut a section out of the frame and fitted a display gauge in place with caphead bolts.

In retrospect, I would have bought a more accurate digital display rather than a simple green-to-red scale.

Week 51 - Battery Charger

This week I could return to the electrics. I had previously invested in a CTEK M200 battery charger (about £120) which I could now install in the van. It is a waterproof charger made for use on boats but it fits the specification of my system and will fully charge my two batteries in a few hours. CTEK are renowned for making quite reliable chargers for this kind of purpose too.

I fitted the charger on the shelf and screwed it down in place. The shelf above it will need to allow for the charger leads to connect through to the leisure batteries and the plug to connect to a socket from the consumer unit.

While the charger will keep the batteries topped up when connected up to the mains, they will also need to be charged from the van alternator while the engine is running.

For this, I need to run a thick (16mm) cable from the main vehicle battery positive terminal, under the van, to the leisure batteries (via a smartcom unit and a big relay). I made up some cables, and after removing the old relay from under the bonnet, I fitted an 80A midi fuse in a fusebox in its place. Another cable from here goes underneath the van and up underneath the leisure batteries where the electrics are housed.

Week 50 - Bike Rack

I ordered a bike rack (£39 including postage, eBay) to fit to the van. After a bit of research, I decided on a rack to carry 2 bikes which would fit to the van tow bar – more secure than those which hook over a car boot door.

By fitting to the tow bar, I figured there is much less chance of the rack not fitting to the van. The rack is surprisingly easy to fit and it’s really secure when connected on the tow bar.

Two further straps fit to the van doors and the arms can be positioned to grip the bikes in little holders with grooves and rubber ties. The only thing I would say is that the distance between these arms cannot be adjusted so it will not fit bikes with smaller frames very well - perfect for my needs though.

I do however need to get an extra number plate now as the original is covered up when the bikes are on.

Also, this week I added a 23 litre waste water tank which sits perfectly under the rear right-hand-side corner of the van where the waste water pipe comes. This tank fits snugly behind the double rear seats when not in use.

Week 49 - Re-Wiring 2

While re-wiring the back of the van, I decided to do the same to the water pump and tap. I had been advised that connecting the microswitch in the tap directly to the water pump could blow the switch as it is not designed to take a very big load. The solution? To fit a 30A relay triggered by the microswitch which will then isolate it from the current running to the water pump. The downside of this was that I needed to fit a 2-way fusebox and a relay under the sink.

 After wiring everything up using the same methods of crimp terminals and electrical tape, I fixed the relay and fusebox (5A to the microswitch, 20A to the water pump) to the inside of the cupboard. The test worked perfectly so the electrics can now be boxed in without fear of blowing the switch.

I used wooden batons and a piece of ply to box the electrics in the corner without taking up too much storage space and the job’s a good ’un.

I do wish I had more of an idea of the electrics earlier in the build though as it would make this stage much easier if planned more beforehand.

Week 48 - Re-Wiring 1

I decided to rewire the 12v sockets and the rear light at the back of the van. I fitted a separate 4 way fusebox in the end of the storage bench – one to the rear light, two to the sockets, and one spare. There is a 10A fuse for each of the sockets and a 2A fuse for the rear fluorescent light. I used wiring terminals to connect the cables up with the corresponding spade terminals used when fixing up to the fusebox. I used my wire crimpers then wrapped a piece of electrical tape round to secure it further.

I then wired up the fusebox, screwed it in place, and tested the light and sockets. All worked well, so I covered the wiring over with a panel made from a piece of ply which looks neater and protects the wiring.

Week 47 - Foam Mattress 3

It was time to call on the services of my dear mum again, this time to cover the foam mattress pieces. I had a couple of black/grey sheets and duvet covers for a single bed (I now have a double) so these could be cut up to cheaply cover the foam.

After working her magic, I now have two mattress parts which form the bed. They fit like a dream and store width-ways above the cab area.

I took my bedding downstairs to test out what the bed looks like when made up – pretty inviting after a long night I think.

Week 46 - Foam Mattress 2

After testing out the foam mattress, it was reasonably comfortable but I decided to buy a memory foam topper to try and give a bit more comfort. I found a seller on eBay who sells these cheap after they have got too dusty/dirty for big chains to sell as new. I picked up a 20mm thick mattress topper for £13 including postage and it arrived in mint condition – bargain! 

Now it just needed to be cut to match the blue foam so I used the original foam to cut around as a template. After arranging the foam on the bed frame and testing it, it was pretty comfy and ready to be covered.

week 45 - Foam Mattress 1

The bed frame is now completed so it’s time to make the foam mattress to go on top of it. I started by measuring up the space and deciding how the mattress would be stored in the van when not in use. I settled on storing it above the cab area, as this would only be used as part of the bunk bed when the main bed was set up anyway.

I bought some 1.5” (38mm) thick blue foam from a local market – apparently, the blue stuff is the best to sleep on but that might just be the guy’s sales pitch. I then measured up the foam and cut it to size and shape, splitting the bed in the middle as the roll was not wide enough to do in one piece. After some slight adjustments (taking out a few notches here and there), I had the basis for the mattress.

I cut the foam fairly easily with a good pair of scissors, however I have heard the easiest way to get a good clean edge is to use an electric kitchen knife.

Week 44 - Battery Tray

By this point I have started getting together most of the electrical equipment I will need to supply power to the van and keep the batteries charged up. I have also been working on the wiring schematic (with much help from members of the SBMCC forum). 

All of the electrical gear will be fitted under the front two passenger seats. This area is split into two parts however, and the smaller partition is also hampered by a storage space under the seats.

The first thing to fit into this space is the batteries as they take up the most space so I started building a battery tray to house the two 110Ah batteries which I have bought. These will be connected in parallel to provide 220Ah in total (220 amp hours = 1 amp of current for 220 hours, 10 amps for 22 hours, 100 amps for 2.2 hours, etc).

The battery tray was made of ply with wooden batons screwed on. The tray is raised slightly to allow for cables coming from under the van to run underneath freely. I fitted 2 battery clamps to hold the batteries in the tray with the brackets fitted to the partition inside the seat and on the battery tray. The straps then do up tight to hold the batteries down.

I also built-in a shelf in the smaller section which will hold the mains powered battery charger… more on this later.

Week 43 - Main Bed Frame 2

Now that the steelwork was in place, I fitted some bed slats between to take the weight in the bed. These were about 20mm thick (actually a little bit overkill for this use) and joined with a ribbon to keep them spaced equally. They are pretty solid, and held in place by the seats on either side. I used a thin piece of 4mm plywood to go over the bed slats and make sure the surface is flat. 

I made up two panels to fit over the other book box and the bench storage unit and cover the gap in between. These also raised the height in this region so that the bed frame is now all at the same level (or as level as it can be with the shape of the seats).

All parts of the bed frame can be removed and stored behind the rear-facing seats without taking up any additional room

Week 42 - Main Bed Frame 1

The main bed will fit on the rear seats. I got some small brackets made up at work and these were painted up the same way as the gas locker.

I fixed these between the seats – two to the side wall, one to the larger book box, one to the end of the storage bench.

I then used two removable pieces of stainless steel box section 30x30x3 to span between the brackets. A quick jump-up-and-down on them showed they were definitely strong enough.

Week 41 - 12v Sockets

It is time to make some modifications to the 12v socket at the rear of the van. I decided that I would fit a separate fusebox in this area which would take care of the rear light and an additional 12v socket. Accessing the socket from inside the inside of the bench storage unit is far from ideal too, so I decided that the sockets should be accessed without lifting the lid.

I measured up and mounted the 2 sockets on a piece of ply and then drilled corresponding holes through the end of the bench. I used sealant to fill in around the holes before positioning the sockets in from behind and tidying up the sealant. The sockets are now secured in place and can be wired up to the fusebox.

I also fitted three small battery powered LED lights just so that there is back-up light if there is a power failure or the batteries get flat. One is above the kitchen area (pictured) and two are fitted on the underside of the bunk bed panels.

Week 40 - Alarm

I have bought a wireless burglar alarm for Vanny. The alarm (about £10 from eBay) runs off four AA batteries and basically comprises of a PIR sensor and a siren. It also came with two remotes to turn the alarm off when entering the living area of the van. After a quick test in the kitchen I can confirm it is pretty damn loud!

I have fitted it is broad view of the side door window as a deterrent as much as anything. Hopefully it will stop any opportunistic thief who is peering through the window, and if not, it will certainly attract some notice when they set it off.

As well as the alarm, I have put some warning stickers up as an additional prevention measure. I think I will probably get a wheel lock in the future too.

Week 39 - Water Pump

Supplying water in a campervan can be done most simply with a submersible pump and an onboard water tank. I decided that this would be the route I took also. Similar to fitting the gas, I cut a section of the cupboard floor out to house two 10l fresh water tanks (using 2 smaller tanks proved the best use of space due to the position of the wheel arch).

I then bought a Reich 14l/min submersible pump for a 10mm tube – this matched the size and make for the tap. The pump and the tube came from a local caravan/camping shop.

I fitted the tube to the “push-on” fixtures and secured at the top with a jubilee clip. The pump is then wired back and turned on and off with the tap micoswitch. A quick test and it all works well.

I later changed the configuration of the electrics to incorporate a 30A Relay. This is because the microswitch in the tap is only cut out for small loads and might blow and need replacing if used to directly control the pump.

Week 38 - Tap

As I would only be using cold water, I decided on a Reich 10mm tap with a microswitch to turn the water on and off. I drilled through the worktop taking care to avoid the position of the drawer and ran the tap wiring through the hole.

The tap was obviously made to go though a much thinner material as the thread was not long enough. After some tweaking (bodging) the tap was glued firmly in position with Araldite.

I can now connect the power and water up with a pump to supply water to the sink.

Week 37 - Fire Extinguisher

This was another slow week with progress on the van. Now that all the units are fitted, I was able to decide where the fire extinguisher should go. I chose to fit it opposite the kitchen units near the rear doors.

The extinguisher was taken out of the old caravan before it was scrapped, and came with a bracket which I screwed to the wall. I hope it still works, and I hope I never need to use it.

Week 36 - Rear Door Panels 2

Last week’s panels can now be fitted to the van. I started by fixing the mirror to one of the panels. I then plugged the spaces behind the panels with insulation and held them up to mark their positions. Next I drilled 5mm holes and riveted the panels on with 5mm aluminium rivets. All that was left was to screw in the access panel behind the rear number plate. I think the panels look pretty good now that they are fixed on.